Sid Vict yuav tsis ntseeg tias nws cov khaub ncaws qub npaum li cas tau tsim nyog thiab cov neeg siv cuav no yuav mus rau qhov ntev rau lawv.
Tsis ntev dhau los, London-based pop kev cai lij choj keeb kwm keeb kwm, thiab lub sij hawm ntawm malcolm Lub tsho los ntawm Malcolm McLaren entwood Westwood lub Westwood txoj kev tawm suab, circa xyoo 1977, rau kev tshuaj xyuas.
Nws yog tsim los ntawm Muslim thiab cov yam ntxwv uas paub tam sim los ntawm kws ua yeeb yam Jamie reid rau lub tes tsho ntawm kev sib deev pistols '"anarchy hauv tebchaws Askiv" ib leeg.
Yog tias nws yog qhov tseeb, nws yuav nqa ib qho zoo nraug ntawm kev mus ncig.Thaum ib lub tsho loj ntawm lub Tsib Hlis Ntuj Hla kev sib deev thiab "kev sib deev pistols" tsis muaj yav tom ntej "Lyrics" muag rau $ 8,896.
Txawm li cas los xij, Mr Gorman tsis ntseeg lub tsho nws tau ntsuas yog qhov uas tus tswv tau thov.
"Muslim yog tsis muaj sijhawm nyob rau qee qhov chaw," Mr. Gorman tau hais. "Tab sis lwm qhov, cov ntaub yog tseem tshiab. Tus number case tsis yog 1970s zoo thiab tsis muaj diffuse rau hauv cov ntaub. " Nug txog cov pov thawj, tus neeg muag khoom rho tawm daim ntawd los ntawm kev khaws cia hauv tsev khaws khoom, "Gorman tau hais tias," Thiab kuv xav tias yog lus nug ib yam nkaus. "
Zoo siab txais tos rau lub ntiaj teb weird thiab lucrative ntiaj teb ntawm fake punk.Ot cov qauv kev sib xyaw ua ke, tub rog cov qauv kev sib xyaw ua qauv, twex - sid lom zem thiab Nws cov phooj ywg hauv Anarchy dab tsi tshwm sim nyob rau hauv lub sijhawm ntawm kev sib koom - tau dhau los ua kev lag luam loj hlob.
"Kuv tau txais ntau tus email txhua hli thov yog tias muaj qee yam yog tiag tiag," Steven Filis, cov kws sau ntawv thiab tus kws pab tswv yim. "Kuv yuav tsis koom nrog. Tib neeg yog yuav cov neeg ruam 'kub. Muaj ib txwm muaj 500 fakes rau ib tug tiag tiag. "
Rau ib nrab xyoo pua, Mr McLaren thiab MS Westwood tau qhib lawv lub khw muag khoom, yog hnub yug ntawm txoj kev ntawm txoj kev zam. Cov tswv yog tus tsim qauv uas txhais tau lub punch scene.
Tshaj lub ensuing 10 xyoo, lub khw tau hloov mus rau kev sib deev thiab cov lus qhia txog kev sib deev thiab yog li ntawd muaj ntau yam, "hais tias muaj ntau yam," ntawm "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "Cov khaub ncaws ntau lawm yog luv, cov khaub ncaws yuav kim, thiab tib neeg yuav yuav thiab coj lawv mus txog thaum lawv poob."
Dior thiab Fendi tus thawj coj Artistic, Kim Jones, muaj ntau ntau ua haujlwm thiab ntseeg tias "Westwood thiab McLaren tsim cov qauv ntawm cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub. Lawv yog lub zeem muag, "nws hais.
Ntau lub tsev khaws puav pheej tseem sau cov no.MIHAEL nqi zog, kev sib raug zoo ntawm cov khw muag khoom hauv ntiaj teb, yog ib qho kev ua lag luam ntawm Woverwood.Qhov xwm txheej nws tau sib sau nrog nws tus poj niam, Gerlinde, Tam sim no nyob rau hauv kev sib sau ntawm Victoria thiab Albert Tsev khaws puav pheej, uas yuav Mr MR tus nqi sau hauv 2002 rau £ 42,500 los ntawm National Art Fund.
Tus nqi ntawm vintage mclaren thiab Westwood ua rau lawv lub hom phiaj rau kev zam qib hauv online thiab muag ncaj qha, tsis muaj kev dag ntxias - tsuas yog ib qho kev paub ntawm t-shirt yooj yim.
"Daim duab uas muaj npe hu ua keeb kwm yav dhau los," tus kws khaws ntaub ntawv London Guevara lossis Marilyn, xaus mus kis tau los ntawm peb kab lis kev cai. Kev sib deev cov kav hlau sib deev txhais tau tias era, yog li cov duab tau rov ua dua tshiab tas li. "
Tom qab ntawd muaj qhov tseeb pom tseeb cov cawv, xws li cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo pheej yig ntawm lub tsho Mickey (lossis $ 190 thawj zaug uas tsis yog qhov tseem ceeb, vim yog Cov ntaub tshiab thiab qhov tseeb tias cov style no tsis tau ua tiag tiag hauv xyoo 1970.Qhov kev lag luam Nyiv yog dej nyab nrog fakes.
Xyoo tas los, Mr Gorman pom ib lub cev tsoos tsho hu ua "Vintage Seditionarne Vivienarne Vivienne 'Dawb T-shirt' Dawb T-sheG, uas nws yuav yog kev kawm kis las rau £ 100 (txog $ 139).
"Nws yog qhov txaus piv txwv txog kev cuav," nws yeej tsis muaj. Tab sis ntxiv rau 'Slogan thiab ONslaught ntawm kev sim siv cov duab tas luav uas tau coj mus rau hauv McLaren thiab Westwood. Kuv siv cov ntawv luam tawm tau lees tias cov inks yog niaj hnub, zoo li yog lub tsho t-shitching. "
Mr McLaren tus poj ntsuam, Hluas Kim, tau siv zog ua haujlwm ntau xyoo 2013 los tshuaj xyuas nws txoj kev sau tseg, "Kuv tau hais kom paub tias feem ntau lawv tau fake. Cov khaub ncaws qub yog me me. Malcolm ua rau lawv haum nws thiab Vivienne. Muaj ntau cov khaub ncaws ntawm qhov tau ntsib tau loj thiab haum rau kev ua ntej-punks ntawm hnub no. "
Muaj lwm cov phiajcim. "Lawv muaj ib khub tweed thiab tawv ris, uas muaj tsawg thiab qhabnias," MS King hais. "Lawv tshwm sim muaj tus khub thib ob, uas yog cuav. Lub stitching yog nyob rau sab saum toj ntawm lub duav, tsis sab hauv, raws li nws yuav nyob rau ib tug zoo-ua khaub ncaws. Thiab d-ntiv nplhaib yog qhov tshiab. "
Kev ua haujlwm hauv qhov tau ntsib xyoo 2013 "los ntawm kev ntxhov hnyo rau haute couture" kev ua yeeb yam tau kos rau ntawm cov forma fakes thiab Mr.
Tab sis muaj cov lus nug txog kev ua haujlwm uas tau nkag mus hauv lub tsev cia puav pheej yim ua ntej lawm.Qhov kev sib tw uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau Londonia, thiab vintage Westwood thiab Mclaren Cov tuam txhab qev nyiaj Kev sau cov roj ntsha, uas tau muab cov stylists thiab cov neeg ua yeeb yaj kiab, thiab tus khub ua lag luam tau tsim tsa cov tsev khaws puav pheej online, lub tsev cia puav pheej nres npe ua ib feem ntawm nws cov khoom.
"Xyoo 2015, ob lub westlenen-Westwood tej qhov chaw nyob rau hauv peb cov kev sib sau tau txiav txim siab ua cov fwj dej ntawm lub chaw ua haujlwm hnav tsoos tsho." Cov haujlwm tau rov qab los tom qab ntawd. Peb cov kev tshawb fawb hauv thaj chaw no yog txuas ntxiv. "
Mr Gorman xa Mr Bolton ntau cov email nyob rau hauv uas nws hais lwm yam ua haujlwm hauv koob hmoov, tab sis Mr Gorman hais rau cov khaub ncaws hnav tau raug tshuaj xyuas los ntawm cov kws tshaj lij tshaj li ib zaug.mr Bolton tsis kam muab cov lus qhia ntxiv rau cov lus.
Yawg Easton, uas yuav tsis tawm lus rau tsab xov xwm no, tau hais lus rau Mr Bowie tau hais lus rau nws, tab sis nws lub npe nyob hauv lub xyoo, nws punkpistol.com, nws punkpistol.com, nws punkpistol.com, nws tau suav hauv xyoo 2008, yog suav los ntawm ntau raws li kev ntseeg tau cov khoom lag luam uas ntseeg tau rau tus thawj McLaren thiab Westwood qauv tsim.
Txawm li cas los xij, Mr Boyie tau hais tias txawm lawv cov kev siv zog zoo tshaj plaws rau kev sau, "tus hapazard txoj kev uas cov khaub ncaws tau xeeb, tsim thiab rov ua dua tshiab tabkaum. Niaj hnub no, txawm tias nrog kev twv cov npe, cov ntawv them nyiaj thiab qee kis los ntawm Westwood cov ntawv pov thawj, cov ris tsho no tseem muaj kev sib cav. "
Thaum lub Cuaj Hlis 9, 2008, Mr. McLaren tau qhia thawj zaug ntawm kev dag ib puag ncig nws thiab Ms. Westwood los ntawm tus email uas tsis qhia npe email xa mus rau cov kab lus no thiab txheeb xyuas tus MSS. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Cov lus tshaj tawm hauv qab no, tub ceev xwm thawb cov tsev nyob hauv Croydon thiab Eastbourne, qhov chaw uas lawv pom yob ntawm cov neeg ua kom zoo nkauj," tus email tau hais. "Tab sis leej twg yog cov pranksers tshiab? Txais Tos Mr Great Hareard thiab Mr Leeker. "
Pab cov tw rog-Howard, tam sim no DJ nyob rau hauv lub npe dawb uas pab nyiaj, thiab lee cov neeg kho hniav, tau sim ntawm Kingston Yas Tsev Hais Plaub Hnub Tim 2010, txiav txim plaub rau Susan Matthews tau hais. Lawv yog "cov tub rog uas muaj tsiaj txhu" .Qhov khoom ntiag tug
Ob tug tau tom qab tau pom tias muaj kev txhaum ntawm kev ua yuam kev banksy txoj haujlwm.mr. McLaren, tsuas yog tus tsim ntawm thawj kev sib deev thiab cov chaw ua si uas tau kuaj xyuas, tau hais kom ua raws li cov khoom noj khoom haus, siv ykk ntau dua li Xob Lipping zippers , Cov duab tsis raug Juxtaposition thiab Dyed Old Dawb Tee.
"Nws npau taws heev," Ms King tau hais. "Nws xav txog kev tiv thaiv thiab tiv thaiv nws txoj haujlwm. Nws yog tus nqi rau nws. " Tom qab kev sib koom tes ntawm Mr McLaren thiab MS Westwood tau tawg thaum xyoo 1984, muaj kev sib cav ntev ntev ntawm ob qho kev sib cav sib ceg tsis tau daws, thiab cov nro tsim lub tshuab nqus tsev rau cov neeg nqus tsev.
MR Howard thiab Mr Parer tau muab cov kab lus ncua tseg hauv rooj plaub hauv tuam txhab nyiaj, tab sis cov mclaren tuag nyob rau xyoo 2010 rau qhov kev foob rau hauv daim teb.
Txawm li cas los xij, nws hloov tawm tias MS Westwood tsev neeg yuav tau tsim kev lag luam ib qho kev lag luam thaum ntxov, "Mr. McLaren thiab McLaren thiab McLaren thiab Mc Cov. Westwood, uas qhib nws tus kheej ris tsho hauv qab xyoo 1994.
"Peb rov qab ua rau cov nqaij qaib t-shirt thiab 'Venus' T-shirt," Mr. Corré tau hais tseg. "Lawv tau sau cia rau hauv kev ua lag luam Japanese Cov. " Ua ntej cov ncauj lus qhia ntxaws thiab kim dua, luam tawm ntawm kev ua haujlwm tau txwv tsis pub pom kev lag luam, ntau lawm ceev ceev, thiab tus nqi yog pheej yig heev.
Mr. Corré hais tias Vivienne Westwood latensed kev luam tawm.mr. McLaren tau npau taws.Qhov email hnub tim 14 Lub Kaum Hli 2008 rau ib pawg nrog cov neeg sau xov xwm Steven, Mr McLaren sau hais tias: "Leej twg tau tso cai rau lawv ua qhov no? Kuv hais rau JOE los tso tseg tam sim ntawd thiab sau ntawv rau nws .Kuv npau taws. "
Mr. Corré, uas nyuam qhuav dhau los ua tus thawj coj ntawm Vivienne Foundation, "siv cov kev cai ntawm nws txoj haujlwm hauv txoj kev muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau ntau yam ua rau muaj ntau yam ua rau." Nws hais tias nws yuav tshawb txog yuav ua li cas "kev xaus lus" tus vaj ntxwv tseem sib tw thiab ntseeg tias nws tau rov qab ua dua los ntawm nws li keeb kwm.
Yawg Easton thiab Mr. Bowey Pustol lag luam txuas ntxiv mus ua ntawv pov thawj los ntawm Vivienne West Compitting, feem ntau ntawm cov uas tau tsim thiab archived los ntawm murray bewettett. Cov kev suav nrog cov tsho loj nrog Peter Pan Collars thiab Inverted Silk Karl Marx Patches, thiab Levi's-roj hmab tsho.
Is Taws Nem tsis yog raws li cov tsev twv ua si feem ntau, tab sis lawv yuav tsis hais txog cov lus no, tab sis hais tias lawv tsuas yog cov duab hnav cov khaub ncaws nyob rau xyoo 1970.
"Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom nkag siab tias ntau tus neeg raug cov neeg raug kev txaus siab yog qhov txaus siab," Mr Gorman tau hais. "Lawv yeej xav ntseeg lawv yog ib feem ntawm zaj dab neeg qub. Ntawd yog dab tsi zam yog txhua yam, puas yog? Nws yog tag nrho tsav los ntawm kev muaj siab. "
Lub Sijhawm Post: Apr-09-2022